We arrived in La Paz for the third time since we started our visit to Mexico in 2016. This time around we found that quite a few things have changed. The malecon was getting a facelift along with many new stores . It wasn’t clear if it was all the construction or the latest spike in crime rate but we found that the malecon was not visited by as many health conscious locals taking their evening jogs, rollerblading or bicycling as I remembered in the past. All in all, we didn’t feel any less safe.

Luckily, we found a cat sitter for Cutip two days before departure. Not only was she our dock neighbor but she also had a cat on her boat. She knew exactly what the work entailed. A perfect match.

After few days of tidying up we were off to Mexico City. The original reason for visiting Mexico City was to apply for the Long Stay Visa in French Polynesia. Since we were in a huge metropolis we decided to take in some culture, history and food.

Day 1

As we imagined, Mexico City was huge and busy with lots of people. Luckily, our hotel was in the middle of the historic center, making many attractions an easy access. Arriving on Monday meant most museums were closed so the next best thing was to visit it’s Cathedral. Churches don’t have holidays.

Catedral Metropolitan was a huge Cathedral, largest in Latin America, with many expansions over the years. It had two amazingly ornate gilded alters, central organ with double set of organ pipes for each side naves, and numerous stations for dedication to various saints.

Day 2

The next day we decided to brave the Metro and a bus to the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. There are so many guided tours catering to tourists here. Since we have a flair for the off the beaten path, we decided to get ourselves there and tour the Pyramids on our own.

With two metro transfers and a stop at the bus terminal, transportation was easy and economical. The bus dropped us off right in front of the gates of the pyramids. Before entering the pyramid grounds, we stopped at one of the restaurants lining the streets.

This is a massive area with the largest Sun pyramid in the center, smaller Moon pyramid off on one side and lots of smaller temples.

Day 3

Then came the day for our appointment at the French Consulate. We have been preparing all the necessary documents for months to be able to qualify for Long Stay visas in French Polynesia. From many sources we have heard that French Polynesia should not be rushed. Typical tourist visa allows one to stay only for 3 months and require a purchase of a refundable flight ticket out of French Polynesia. Many cruisers obtain their long stay visas back in the States but we were already in Mexico which made it difficult for us to fly back to US and wait a couple months to receive the Visas.

One challenge to our approach of requesting visas in Mexico was that most of the interactions were in Spanish. After having answered a bunch of questions and showing the guard that we had exact Mexican Pesos for the visa application, we were buzzed inside a heavily armored gate. Then we answered some more questions in Spanish. This time thanks to another Mexicana who translated for us we were able to submit all the documents and answer the embassy’s questions. Since they can’t tell you whether you will receive the Visas at the time of your appointment, it turns into a waiting game despite all your efforts.

We celebrated our French embassy experience at a near by French Cafe in French style with pain au chocolate and cafe au lait with two big sighs of relief on the side.

Since we had half a day left after the embassy we decided to soak ourselves in Mexican history at the Anthropology Museum.

Day 4

Next on our itinerary was the Basilica. I have seen the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe (OLG) all over Mexico and even in the states. The significance of OLG is extraordinary in Mexico because it was one of the earliest Virgin Mary apparitions dating back to 1531 and specifically given to the indigenous Mexican, Juan Diego. OLG is the patroness of the Americas. This image of OLG is so significant because we can view the living miracle that dates back almost 500 years.

The story of Juan Diego and The Virgin Mary: One day Juan Diego was walking across the hills of Tepayec, outside of Mexico City, when he heard the Virgin’s voice. She told Juan Diego to tell the bishop in town to build a church on top of the hill. Juan Diego was distressed that the bishop wouldn’t believe his account of the apparition especially told by such a lowly man. The bishop indeed didn’t believe Juan Diego so he asked him to bring him a sign. Juan Diego went back to the site of the apparition, met and told the Virgin that the bishop wanted a sign. She instructed him to go where roses were growing and bring them to the bishop. He gathered the picked flowers in his tilma, a cloak made out of coarse agave fibers. Juan Diego refused to show the flowers to any one but the bishop. When the bishop was available, he opened his tilma to show the flowers. As the flowers fell to the ground, the bishop fell to his knees astounded by the image of OLG on the tilma. The bishop was convinced and built a church as the Virgin requested.

A more in depth story can be found here.

The story Juan Diego and the Virgin Mary is extraordinary but the tilma where OLG was imprinted is quite a miracle. Scientists have analyzed the fibers and the image to verify that it is indeed the original tilma Juan Diego showed the bishop. I have heard that tilmas made of agave fibers don’t last more than 10 years so for this one to have lasted close 500 years is a miracle. Plus, the colors of the image was analyzed and the scientists noted that they weren’t painted on in layers like most images would have been throughout history since 1531. The face of OLG mirrors the face of the indigenous Indian woman which connected readily with the indigenous Indians at the time and aiding in their conversion.

The Metro was really convenient and the cost per ride is around $0.60, outrageously cheap. However, do not attempt the Metro during rush hour. On our way back from the Anthropology Museum, it started to rain so many were opting for the Metro earlier than normal. We attempted to get on the Metro several times but failed after seeing the metro doors nearly close on people’s arms. Men were literally pressed against the doors of the trains. Our sensible kids urged us to walk back to the hotel in the rain.

After long days of walking and sightseeing we were always so happy to be back in our hotel room.